I love the ocean. I know I don't say it too often. Well, I don't really express my emotions about anything. So I suppose it would be really weird if I expressed my emotion about the ocean since I don't express any emotion, ever. Anyways, I love the ocean. And in a related story, I love surfing too.

Of the past 14 days I've gone surfing("") 12 times (yeah I know my life is a lot better than I would lead you to believe). And I really would like to think I've progressed a lot in just the past 2 weeks. I'd also like to think I've progressed a lot since I really started surfing in May. I don't know if I've gotten any better at all, it's hard to say since I don't have any reference to how bad I actually was. But certainly I can paddle faster, quicker, and that is at least a little something.

In my 'progress' over the past few months I have realized that learning how to surfing falls into the category of 'two steps forward, one step back'. I think for every hour I surf I get 2% smarter and 1% dumber in surfing knowledge. This aspect of surfing is what makes it so rewarding and so beeeeeaeeeeeaauuutiful! That's why improving at surfing, and just surfing, is so important to me. I don't want anyone to think that I think I'm a good surfer (that's awkward). I'm just saying I'm better than I was, and its beeeeeaaauuutiful...

Surfing is the closest I get to a 'religious experience', or at least what I imagine a religious experience is. The best days are when its on the smallish side but the waves are still really fun and 'punchy' (I invented 'punchy'. It doesn't have a real definition. Think of it as stong waves that don't present any peril to the surfer). And if that happens when there is no one around (say a tuesday) you can just lay on your board in between sets. I can't really describe what happnes when I lay out on my board, but its beautiful. So you should really try it.

I'd appreciate if someone would keep pushing me to get better... my goal is to remove the quotation marks from "surfer" by sometime next summer.